Tag Archives: denim

distress-jeans-new

Here’s how to distress jeans

The sweetest thing about the distressed trend is that it can be done by yourself. It allows you to add personality and your own personal touch.

It gives your denim a lived-in feel.

There are two ways to go out about it. You can keep it clean and your jeans a nice cut at the knee.  Or you can do a blown out knee where there’s more distressing involved.

Left is minimal distressing. Right is with a blown out knee.

Junlop - Sky Blue Destroyed distress jeans   Ezra_-_Ocean_Blue5 distress jean

#1 tip? Take your time, start small and adjust. If you don’t like how it looks, you can always adjust accordingly.

Let’s Get Started

Step 1: Choose how distressed you want your jeans and where you want it.

Step 2: Put on your jeans and take chalk or a pen to mark the area you want to work on. The blown out knee should start above your knee, not right at your knee cap.

Step 3: Start distressing. Cut the spots you marked. The key is to pull the threads apart so it’s more destroyed and lived-in.

Step 4: Give em a good wash. It will always look better and less stiff once it’s gone through the washer.

Watch the video by Kollar Clothing to see how he likes to distress jeans.

Shop the new Kollar Clothing Collection

kollar clothing Ezra_-_Ocean_Blue Kollar Clothing Dunlox - Faded Black kollar clothingSlane - Volcano Blue kollar clothing The Jones - Cloudy Blue

Neuw Denim

In the modern day, denim is not just an article of clothing in our closets. A pair of denim grows with us, moulds to us and experiences life with us. With that, we want to give you the best partner for your adventures. We would like to introduce you to Neuw Denim, an Australian brand that really embodies the denim culture. Owners Par Lundqvist, Richard Bell and Stephen Little share a strong passion for producing the best of the best. There’s a focus on every detail, from fabrication, fit to the finish.

As always, everything in store is curated with the Gotstyle Man in mind. From the brand, we selected two fits: the Iggy Skinny and Lou Slim. Both appropriately named after rock ‘n’ roll legends- a big influence on denim culture as a whole.

The Lou Slim fit has a regular rise with a slim fit and straight leg. The bottom opening is 12″ with an inseam of 34″. This style is inspired by the jeans worn by Lou Reed while recording Velvet Undergound’s debut album.

The Iggy Skinny fit has a regular rise and as the name suggests, a trim fit. The bottom opening is 6” with an inseam of 32”. This style is inspired by the jean worn by Iggy Pop on the cover of his 1977’s album “The Idiot” and the punk rock movement.

neuw-denim-lou-biker-wash

neuw-denim-lou-japanese

neuw-denim-iggy-black

neuw-denim-sonic

 

 

5-ways-to-wear-a-blazer2

A great blazer is one of the most reliable and versatile pieces in any guy’s wardrobe. The classic way to wear a blazer is similar to a suit jacket — with a dress shirt and tie — but slightly less formal (the jacket isn’t a matching set with the suit pants). The differences between a blazer, sport coat, and suit jacket can be subtle, but they’re important to know.

Think you’ve got the classic blazer look covered? Great. Let’s step up your style to the next level, and explore 5 new looks to make the most of your awesome blazers that have been trapped in the confines of nine to five.

BLAZER LOOK #1

double breasted navy blazer look
Tiger of Sweden Navy Double Breasted Peak Lapel Blazer: $599, Stenstroms Slimline Basic Dress Shirt: $195, Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic Dry: $179, Gotstyle Double Monkstrap Wingtip Shoe: $225

A double breasted blazer with dark denim is a modern power look any guy can pull off. The double breasted blazer is bold, so pair it with a solid colour dress shirt and let the blazer do the talking. Always keep the inside button and upper outside button fastened when standing. The only time you shouldn’t do up a button is if your blazer has multiple rows of buttons on the centre. If that’s the case, the same rule as with single breasted blazers applies — leave the bottom button undone.

Make sure that when wearing jeans with dress shoes the jeans are well tapered at the bottom, like on our model above. This will add height and slim down your look. If the front cuff of your jeans covers either of the monkstraps, it’s a sign the cuffs are too wide.

It may not be what you’re used to, but trust me, tapered lower legs are the way to avoid the dreaded “dad jean flare” you may not even realize you’ve been rocking. Once you wear one pair of properly tapered jeans and see the difference, you’ll never go back.

BLAZER LOOK #2

black blazer single breasted notch lapel Strellson Black STC Travel Jacket: $598, John Varvatos Grey Eyelet Henley Shirt: $98, Nudie Jeans Grim Tim Organic Dry: $179

Throw your best dark blazer on over a designer tee, jeans, and military style boots to pull off a Justin Theroux inspired rocker look. Some tips to make sure you do it right:

  • Treat this as a casual look. A t-shirt with a blazer is cool. A t-shirt with a blazer when everyone else is wearing a suit? Not so cool.
  • Make sure your jeans are tapered right. Come on man, we already talked about this.
  • Let your boots develop some character.
  • Leave the blazer unbuttoned — with a t-shirt, better to keep it casual.
  • The t-shirt should hit just below your belt.
  • Avoid tight tees. When wearing a t-shirt with a blazer, try not to look too…slick. I like to gently tug on the collar of my shirts before wearing them under a blazer. A bit of a slouchy look is perfect. You’re not wearing this to a black tie event anyways, so it’s cool to grunge up this particular blazer look.

BLAZER LOOK #3

blue blazer athleisure joggers
Van Gils Blue Pindot Blazer: $550, John Varvatos Green Striped Hoodie: $180, Zanerobe Black Sureshot Chino: $125, Sully Wong x Gotstyle Camo Shoes: $125

Here’s where a blazer can be useful as a transitional layering piece. Pair a casual, natural shoulder blazer like this one with a hoodie, joggers, and luxe sneakers for a super comfy outfit that will turn heads. In the right way.

Make sure the hoodie is thin. Not just any hoodie will work — too thick and it won’t layer nicely with a properly tailored blazer. As much as you love your college sweater, save it for the couch and opt for a sleeker fitting piece.

Seize this opportunity to wear your coolest, boldest sneakers (as long as they match what you’re wearing above the ankles). Joggers were made popular by sneakerheads because they show off a guy’s kicks — so go all out! An eye-catching pair like these ones from Sully Wong elevate the look from good to great.

gotsyle x sully wong camo sneakers

Sully Wong x Gotstyle Camo Shoes: $125

BLAZER LOOK #4

preppy blue blazer look polo swims Gotstyle Navy Wool Notch Lapel Blazer with Metal Buttons: $695, Selected Homme Charcoal Skinny Fit Stretch Chino: $95, Swims Navy Sport Loafer: $100, Taft No-Show Socks: $60 (4-pack)

This preppy spring/summer look works best with a navy blazer. Start with a polo, tucked or untucked (I prefer untucked, but either can work). Roll up your blazer sleeves a bit, even cuff your pants at the ankle if you feel like it. Slim fit chinos are a must, especially when your loafers tie in to the rest of the outfit as well as these ones do.

Pro tip: when going “sockless,” wear no-show socks. The exact same look is achieved, minus the blisters and lingering stink. You’re welcome.

BLAZER LOOK #5

preppy blue blazer look polo swims Without Prejudice Charcoal Flannel Blazer with Elbow Patches: $525, Blue Industry Purple One pocket Crew Neck Knit Sweater: $105, Horst Black Ceratex Herringbone Knit Pants: $128

This is a great transitional layering outfit for fall days when you don’t quiiite need a jacket yet, or the end of winter when you’ve ditched your parka for the season. The different textures (fuzzy flannel on the blazer, herringbone pattern pants) complement well and are way comfier than you’re used to for a look this sharp. The thin crew neck sweater under the blazer gives you some flexibility on whether to button or unbutton.

Last thing — show some cuff. Having that sweater peek out from both the chest and sleeves may not be something everyone notices, but those who do will appreciate the attention to detail.

Ready to pull the trigger on your new blazer look? Our team of stylists is here to help, with private appointments and free wardrobe consultations. Book your appointment today at 416-260-9696 or info@gotstyle.ca.

Remember to bring your blazer(s) with you when you shop. Try layering them with different pieces, and see what works best for you!

STYLE MANUAL
dress shirt fabrics

Last week we discussed 9 major patterns every man should know. Today we will explore dress shirt fabrics. Understanding the difference between some of these fabrics will not only help you flex your sartorial intellect but allow you to find the ideal dress shirt fabric for your needs.

Also check out our new Gotstyle Launch program which features a line of dress shirts, trousers, suits and leather shoes. Everything you need to build your wardrobe.

Before we break down the 10 major dress shirt fabrics, it is important to point out the fundamentals of what makes a great fabric.

Step one:  Identifying the core: is it cotton, man-made fibers or silk? Ideally, you want to stick with cotton as it is the undisputed king of dress shirt fabrics. A finely woven cotton fabric has all the properties a man could want from a garment worn close to the body: good heat and moisture conduction, durability, smoothness, and the ability to take shape when ironed.

Man-made fibers, on the other hand, don’t offer the same comfort as a cotton shirt but do have their own set of advantages. They are often wrinkle and stain resistant and can be ideal for budget minded individuals. Lastly, there is silk, often associated as a luxury fabric, silk offers that high sheen and light drape. It is great for bathrobes and boxers shorts but not necessarily for a shirt. The maintenance costs are high and long term durability low.

Step two: Know your ply. Ply is how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Dress shirt fabrics are most often two-ply or single ply. Two-ply fabrics are generally superior to single-ply fabrics.

Step three: The count. Thread count indicates the size of the thread in the fabric and therefore how many threads per square inch and is often referred to with a number like 50s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 140s 160s, etc up to 200s. For example, 140s means there are 140 hanks (1 hank = 840 yards) of yarn in one pound. Higher numbers mean that the threads are finer which results in a softer, smoother and lighter fabric.

Step four: The finish. Often overlooked, the finish of the fabric is the production process used to actually mill the fabric. A 2-ply 200s fabric sounds impressive but if it’s made with low quality cotton by a dubious manufacturer then it is no better and probably worse than a 1-ply 50s fabric made by a reputable mill.

 10 Dress Shirt Fabrics

Oxford Shirt Fabric

Oxford Shirt Fabric

  • Similar to pinpoint oxford- slightly heavier thread and looser weave
  • Slightly rougher texture but is more durable than most fabrics
  • Symmetrical basket weave where one yarn may cross two yarns
  • Originally developed for sports, the oxford shirt is great as a casual button down shirt

Dobby-Dress-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Woven fabric produced on the dobby loom
  • Characterised by small geometric patterns and extra texture in the cloth
  • Very similar to Jacquard, although technically different
  • Many dobby fabrics have stripes woven into them, although some are solid colors
  • The solid colors tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns woven in the same color as the base cloth

Denim-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • A sturdy cotton twill textile- possibly coarser twill.
  • Typically softer, lighter versions of the fabric then that of your jeans
  • Great for casual wear

Chambray-Fabric-shirt-fabric-1

  • A plain weave fabric with a colored warp and a white weft
  • Generally made with heavier yarns for a rugged,  blue-collar workwear appeal
  • Great for casual wear

Broadcloth-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • A dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool
  • A tightly woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and slight sheen
  • Great for dressy occasions
  • Highly weatherproof and hard wearing

Flannel-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness
  • Typically fuzzy in feel otherwise known as brushed twill or brushed melange
  • Great for cooler weather like Fall/Winter
  • Ideal for casual wear

Melange-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Special type of construction in which each yarn is a combination of fibers that are dyed and not-dyed
  • Generally very thin and very smooth luxurious fabrics with a particular soft finish
  • These different colored cotton fibers are woven together for a feathered, intentionally inconsistent, somewhat organic look.

Pinpoint-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Pinpoint (also referred to as pinpoint oxford) has a similar weave as oxford cloth but uses a finer yarn and tighter weave
  • More formal than oxford cloth, but less formal than broadcloth
  • Pinpoint fabrics are generally not transparent and are slightly heavier and thicker than broadcloths
  • Great choice for business shirts

Poplin-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Made from a plain weave of fine yarns, creating a thin, soft, smooth, long-lasting fabric
  • Thin and breathable – great for under jackets or blazers
  • Can be slightly transparent due to it’s thinness
  • Does well with retaining smoothness after being ironed
  • Sometimes described as broadcloth (technically different, but pretty much the same)

Twill-Shirt-Fabric-1

  • Distinctive diagonal weave
  • Soft, and a bit thicker and warmer than poplin
  • Has a tendency to wrinkle easily for some
  • Works under a jacket, but not quite as breathable as poplin
  • Seems to be difficult to remove stains from twill
STYLE GUIDE
hustle-cover-blogsize

BACK TO SCHOOL HUSTLE

Sasha Ferkul August 26, 2014

Get in gear for a fall of epic events, career-making classes and style that earns top marks. GS has a sartorial education for every academic pursuit. Steer clear of droopy trousers, dated bags and drab suiting. Look to our editorial for distinguishing attire- and stand out from the crowd, no matter the major. Going back to school never looked this good.

Photography by: Ishmil Waterman
Styling by: Sharad Mohan
Words by: Sasha Ferkul

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STYLE MANUAL
Gotstyle-Manual-Selvedge-Deinim

Selvedge (n,):  or “self-edge” is the edge of woven fabric finished to prevent unraveling which is achieved through a tighter, more dense weave.

Selvedge denim refers to a unique type of selvage that is made by means of using one continuous cross-yarn (the weft), which is passed back and forth through the vertical warp beams. This is traditionally finished at both edges with a contrasting warp (most commonly red); that is why this type of denim is sometimes referred to as “red selvedge.” This method of weaving the selvage is possible only when using a shuttle loom.

Shuttle looms weave a narrower 30-inch fabric, which is on average half the width of modern shuttleless Sulzer looms. Consequently a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans from selvedge denim (approximately three yards). – Wikipedia 

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