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STYLE TIPS

Gotstyle’s Guide To Suits For Fall 2014

Sasha Ferkul October 28, 2014

Sell yourself, your brand, your product. First impressions can make or break big numbers so dump those boxy, ill-fitting suits and come in for contemporary looks that inspire confidence. We can fit any size, body type or proportion problem, we’ve got the in fabrics (windowpane checks for all), and warmer textiles for the upcoming freeze (summer suits are lame in winter). Melissa Austria discusses the finer points of modern suiting and what to wear to work now.

STYLE MANUAL

Find out about our current Formal Made to Measure promotion

The true character of one’s suit is often defined by it’s fit, quality of fabric and it’s construction. Unfortunately, many people often forget that the latter, construct, is just as important as the former, especially if you’re an individual that wears suits often. Construction plays are large role in the overall quality of a suit, which is why in this article we’ll be discussing the different types of suit jacket construction—namely, full canvas vs. half canvas vs. fused and why they should matter to you.

Full-and-half-canvassed-and-fused-Main Full Canvas Suits

→ The best quality you can buy in a suit, but are generally more expensive.

Back in the day, all suits were made of canvas. It was usually a horsehair canvas, which is sewn between the lining and the cloth of the jacket. The canvas allows the suit fabric to drape properly and will mold to your body over time (for the perfect fit). It aids in the longevity of the suit by distributing tension at stress points (shoulders, elbows), it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning. Costly to make, full canvas suits usually retail for $1,500+.

Fused Suits

→ A great price point but quality is sacrificed.

As the demand for suits increased, a fused suit was developed to appeal to the mass market. This is an interlining that is heat pressed (glued) to the wool of the suit. While it allowed for suits to be produced at a better price point, it also has a stiffness to the chest and if over dry-cleaned, can lead to bubbling in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing). It is also less durable over time and loses flexibility. Fusing is good if you want a price point suit and don’t plan on wearing it every day.

 

Half Canvas Suits

→ Gives you best of both worlds.

Eventually, a compromise was developed: a half canvas suit. A half canvased suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest and the lapel of the jacket, and is fused on the bottom part of the jacket. This allows you to have the canvas at the most important part of the suit, and keeps the price down by having less handwork.

At Gotstyle we believe in offering the best possible fit, quality and price for our customers. We’ve scoured the world looking for suits that fit this mandate, and we are able to offer you the best selection of modern trim fit, half canvas constructed suits in the city! And if off-the rack isn’t your flavour we also offer a full made-to-measure program to help you get that perfect suit.

STYLE MANUAL

A shoe, like a fine blazer, combines mechanical precision with human artistry and much like a blazer is made up of several components that give it its shape and structure. Before we delve into the various types/styles of footwear we felt it appropriate to give you a quick crash course on the basic anatomy of a shoe. Most men’s dress shoes are made up of these basic 12 elements, it’s the placement or construction of these pieces that give various dress shoes their unique style.

Anatomy-of-A-Shoe

Counter: The half-moon-shaped piece of leather reinforcing the heel.

Lining: Part of the upper, the lining of a shoe is the inside material that touches the sides of the foot, the top of the foot, and/or the back of the heel. The main purpose of a lining is to cover the inside seams of a shoe, but linings made of special materials also tout comfort features such as additional padding, or the ability to pull moisture away from the foot.

Tongue: A strip of leather running just under tehe laces of the show all the way to the opening or throat.

Eyelet: An eyelet provides a smooth, rigid surface for laces to be fed through, and stops the fabric from fraying where the hole was made.

Upper: The term “upper” refers to the part or parts of a shoe that cover the toes, the top of the foot, the sides of the foot, and the back of the heel — it is attached to the outsole of a shoe. Depending on the style of the shoe, the upper of a shoe can be cut from a single piece, or can be comprised of many pieces stitched together. Parts of a shoe’s upper can include the vamp, the back, the tongue, the quarter, and the lining.

Vamp: The front part of the shoe that includes the toe box and the apron.

Toe Box: The front portion of the shoe that covers the toes. It should have support protecting the toes and should be approximately a half-inch longer than the length of the longest toe.

Outsole: The outsole is the bottom part of the shoe. Also referred to as the “sole” of the shoe, this is the part that comes in direct contact with the ground. The outsole of the shoe is often the part that will wear out first, but some shoes can be resoled by a shoe repair shop.

Insole: The insole is the inside part of the shoe that runs underneath the sole (bottom) of the foot. Insoles can usually be easily removed, and wearers will sometimes replace the manufacture’s insole with specialty insoles they’ve purchased separately. Insoles are also sometimes referred to as footbeds, inner soles or innersoles.

Quarter: The continuous side and rear panel that forms the side of the shoe, extending from the vamp in front to the hell in the back.

Collar: The counter of a shoe sits behind the heel of the foot, and is used to stiffen the back part of the shoe, and to give it structure.

Heel: The rear, padded area on the bottom of the foot, as well as the piece at the rear of the show that supports the heel cup. The heel should not slip off the wearer’s foot.

 

STYLE TIPS

“If there is one consistent expression of a man’s sartorial acumen, it’s the way in which he pairs his shirt with his tie.” – Esquire

Colours, prints and patterns can be confusing on a regular day, so when it comes down to mixing them together, you can only imagine the sheer chaos. Learning to successfully match your shirts and ties is an undeniable art, fortunately, it’s one you can easily learn. Getting creative with your shirt and tie combinations is a great way to showcase your personal style and to separate yourself from your peers- especially if you work in an industry that requires you to wear one 5-days a week.

To get you started here are 5 tips and tricks you can employ to help you navigate this realm:

  1. Your tie (typically) should always be darker than your shirt
  2. Match a detail in the tie with the dominant colour of the shirt
  3. Always pair larger patterns with smaller ones. Avoid mixing patterns that have identical proportions
  4. Vary pattern type. Avoid having the same pattern appear in both your shirt and your tie
  5. When outfitting with a suit or blazer- ensure that 2 of the 3 items have the same colour scheme
SHIRT-AND-TIE-STRIPES

Tiger of Sweden Steel Stripe Shirt (Blue & Brown): $159 Stenstroms Fine Stripe Dress Shirt: $249 Seaward & Stern Printed Ties: $150/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-CASUALS

Johnny Love Cross Check Flannel Shirt: $199 Benson Pattern Shirt: $125 Ted Baker Flannel Shirt: $195 Amanda Christensen Tie: $95/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-PRINTS

Oscar Of Sweden Floral Print Shirt: $189 Strellson Quentin-C Houndstooth Dress Shirt: $178 Ted Baker Small Floral Print Shirt: $195 Amanda Christensen Tie: $95/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-SOLIDS

Mastai Ferretti Paolo Verri End-On-End Dress Shirt: $135 Horst Dress Shirt

SHIRT-AND-TIE-CHECKS

Gotstyle Private Label Plaid Check Shirt: $165 Amanda Christensen Tie: 95 Gotstyle Top Twill Grid Check Dress Shirt: $165 Seaward & Stern Tie: $150 Stenstroms Mini Check Dress Shirt: $249

Style Tips

Fall ’14 Sport Coats For Every Occasion

Sasha Ferkul September 25, 2014

Sport coats that call to mind old-school vocabulary (think natty, snazzy and neat) are key to making fall looks modern. The appeal is obvious, blazers add ten style points to almost all attire. They also work on a technical level to layer, outsmart sloped shoulders or streamline the too-much-beer mid section. Add these accomplished pieces to every day, office and event; sport coats should be considered closet essentials.

Credits – Photography by: Ishmil Waterma * Styling By: Sharad Mohan * Words By: Sasha Ferkul * Layout By: Shaeleigh Afton * Model: Reshad (Spot 6 Management)

Mens-Sport-Coats-Gotstyle-Style-Story-Casual

[Casual] Blue Industry Jersey Sport Coat

What it does: Store those parkas a little longer. This off-duty jacket is breathable and layers like a champ, working over light knits and long sleeved tees. The unstructured silhouette assures comfort and slims problem areas. The effortless fit works with a range of physiques- no alterations necessary.

What it says: The grab-and-go piece is an uncomplicated option for those new to the blazer. Styled over chinos, denim or even slick sweats, the jacket elevates simple separates to date night status.

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[Social] Sand Plaid DB Sport Coat

What it does: DB is a bolder look, best attempted by the seasoned jacket man. A peaked lapel highlights shoulders, while the shorter cut offers a more modern appeal. Wear socially with denim to attract the right kind of attention.

What it says: The double-breasted blazer has surpassed trend; this is hardly your grandfather’s boxy jacket. When worn right, the look is high impact and informs everyone of complete sartorial confidence.

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[Business] Haight & Ashbury Paddington Sport Coat

What it does: Give the closetful of suits a much-needed break. Haight & Ash’s blazer is office smart and the ideal mixing piece; just add narrow trousers, pressed shirting and polished Oxfords.

What it says: The on-duty look distinctly channels gentleman of old. Borrowed from the best, think updated Sinatra, Bogart and Grant, the slimming cut and contrast details make this jacket contemporary.

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[Formal] Marco Nils Tweed Sport Coat

What it does: An easy fix for the vertically challenged, this event-ready sport coat hits the right spot to lengthen and delivers the sought-after angular shape- thanks to a sharp, peaked lapel.

What it says: The jacket lends formal attire an extra shot of confidence- the contrast collar and understated motif leave dull looks in the dust. This is new, new way to dress up; style with flawlessly cut separates for an evening look that outshines traditional suiting.

STYLE TIPS

At GS, our goal is to educate our very handsome clients on everything style. Instead of spending hours pondering the differences between blazers, sport coats and suits, click to watch our fearless leader, Melissa Austria (long a fan of the dapper jacket) explain the how, what and where of the must-have pieces.