Tag Archives: menswear

STYLE MANUAL

Know Your Suits: Full Canvas vs. Half Canvas vs. Fused

October 27, 2014

Find out about our current Formal Made to Measure promotion

The true character of one’s suit is often defined by it’s fit, quality of fabric and it’s construction. Unfortunately, many people often forget that the latter, construct, is just as important as the former, especially if you’re an individual that wears suits often. Construction plays are large role in the overall quality of a suit, which is why in this article we’ll be discussing the different types of suit jacket construction—namely, full canvas vs. half canvas vs. fused and why they should matter to you.

Full-and-half-canvassed-and-fused-Main Full Canvas Suits

→ The best quality you can buy in a suit, but are generally more expensive.

Back in the day, all suits were made of canvas. It was usually a horsehair canvas, which is sewn between the lining and the cloth of the jacket. The canvas allows the suit fabric to drape properly and will mold to your body over time (for the perfect fit). It aids in the longevity of the suit by distributing tension at stress points (shoulders, elbows), it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning. Costly to make, full canvas suits usually retail for $1,500+.

Fused Suits

→ A great price point but quality is sacrificed.

As the demand for suits increased, a fused suit was developed to appeal to the mass market. This is an interlining that is heat pressed (glued) to the wool of the suit. While it allowed for suits to be produced at a better price point, it also has a stiffness to the chest and if over dry-cleaned, can lead to bubbling in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing). It is also less durable over time and loses flexibility. Fusing is good if you want a price point suit and don’t plan on wearing it every day.

 

Half Canvas Suits

→ Gives you best of both worlds.

Eventually, a compromise was developed: a half canvas suit. A half canvased suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest and the lapel of the jacket, and is fused on the bottom part of the jacket. This allows you to have the canvas at the most important part of the suit, and keeps the price down by having less handwork.

At Gotstyle we believe in offering the best possible fit, quality and price for our customers. We’ve scoured the world looking for suits that fit this mandate, and we are able to offer you the best selection of modern trim fit, half canvas constructed suits in the city! And if off-the rack isn’t your flavour we also offer a full made-to-measure program to help you get that perfect suit.

MEN OF GOTSTYLE

Men Of Gotstyle: Morgan Jones

October 24, 2014

Men Of Gotstyle is a fashion/style series that champions our amazing clients and friends, their style and extraordinary lives. Meet Morgan Jones, long time customer/friend, mixed media artist, based in Toronto. Morgan, formerly the Director of Sales for a large multi-national consumer electronics manufacturer, left his job of twelve years in August of 2013 to pursue his lifelong passion as a professional artist. Talk about a career change especially when you consider that he’s a self-taught artist.

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Rogue Cotton Snap Button Shirt: $169 Rogue Moto Track Sweat Pants: $150

In the short launch into his full-time career as a professional artist Morgan is blazing trails! With several exhibitions under his belt already at galleries such as Walnut Contemporary and Blueprint, he is no stranger to the arts scene. Morgan has worked on several diverse projects across Toronto from being a guest artist for Plan Canada involved in the launch of their book Every Day is Mala Day to having his works displayed in offices such as The Capitol One building. Jones was commissioned to do lobby art for the Daniels Corporation as a part of their regent park condo development, One Park Place. His work can also be seen in both our Bathurst and Distillery District locations.

men-of-gotstyle-morgan-jones-rides

Given Morgan‘s rogue lifestyle and his extended love for heavy duty motorcycles it was an obvious fit to style him in our latest collection from Rogue and Matchless– two iconic/rugged brands perfect for his aesthetic.

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Rogue Down Filled Puff Vest: $295 Rogue Pima Cotton Henley: $110 Rogue Leather Moto Pants: $525

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Rogue Down Filled Puff Vest: $295 Rogue Pima Cotton Henley: $110

men-of-gotstyle-morgan-jones-8

Rogue Wool Moto Quilted Shawl Collar Blazer: $350 Rogue Snap Button Cotton Shirt: $169 Rogue Moto Track Sweat Pants: $150

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Rogue Leather Moto Pants: $525

AVAILABLE AT: Bathurst, Distillery, Online
STYLE MANUAL

GotStyle MANual: Anatomy Of A Shoe

October 20, 2014

A shoe, like a fine blazer, combines mechanical precision with human artistry and much like a blazer is made up of several components that give it its shape and structure. Before we delve into the various types/styles of footwear we felt it appropriate to give you a quick crash course on the basic anatomy of a shoe. Most men’s dress shoes are made up of these basic 12 elements, it’s the placement or construction of these pieces that give various dress shoes their unique style.

Anatomy-of-A-Shoe

Counter: The half-moon-shaped piece of leather reinforcing the heel.

Lining: Part of the upper, the lining of a shoe is the inside material that touches the sides of the foot, the top of the foot, and/or the back of the heel. The main purpose of a lining is to cover the inside seams of a shoe, but linings made of special materials also tout comfort features such as additional padding, or the ability to pull moisture away from the foot.

Tongue: A strip of leather running just under tehe laces of the show all the way to the opening or throat.

Eyelet: An eyelet provides a smooth, rigid surface for laces to be fed through, and stops the fabric from fraying where the hole was made.

Upper: The term “upper” refers to the part or parts of a shoe that cover the toes, the top of the foot, the sides of the foot, and the back of the heel — it is attached to the outsole of a shoe. Depending on the style of the shoe, the upper of a shoe can be cut from a single piece, or can be comprised of many pieces stitched together. Parts of a shoe’s upper can include the vamp, the back, the tongue, the quarter, and the lining.

Vamp: The front part of the shoe that includes the toe box and the apron.

Toe Box: The front portion of the shoe that covers the toes. It should have support protecting the toes and should be approximately a half-inch longer than the length of the longest toe.

Outsole: The outsole is the bottom part of the shoe. Also referred to as the “sole” of the shoe, this is the part that comes in direct contact with the ground. The outsole of the shoe is often the part that will wear out first, but some shoes can be resoled by a shoe repair shop.

Insole: The insole is the inside part of the shoe that runs underneath the sole (bottom) of the foot. Insoles can usually be easily removed, and wearers will sometimes replace the manufacture’s insole with specialty insoles they’ve purchased separately. Insoles are also sometimes referred to as footbeds, inner soles or innersoles.

Quarter: The continuous side and rear panel that forms the side of the shoe, extending from the vamp in front to the hell in the back.

Collar: The counter of a shoe sits behind the heel of the foot, and is used to stiffen the back part of the shoe, and to give it structure.

Heel: The rear, padded area on the bottom of the foot, as well as the piece at the rear of the show that supports the heel cup. The heel should not slip off the wearer’s foot.

 

ITEM OF THE WEEK

Sully Wong Scottie High-Top Tweed Sneaker

October 16, 2014

To all you shoe aficionados, Sully Wong is back with a brand new sneaker for your collection. Inspired by 1830’s Scottish Master Weaver H.  Tweed best known for the creation of the handwoven Scottish Wool fabric Tweed.  The leather / Tweed fabric combination Hi-Tops highlight the subtleties and design lines of the time, and are reflective of the immense care and attention to detail that Sully Wong is known for. Easy to wear, these kicks can be styled down with a great pair of nudie’s or dressed up with a slim modern cut suit like the ones from Tiger of Sweden.

AVAILABLE AT: Bathurst, Distillery, Online
STYLE TIPS

HOW TO MATCH YOUR SHIRT AND TIE

October 15, 2014

“If there is one consistent expression of a man’s sartorial acumen, it’s the way in which he pairs his shirt with his tie.” – Esquire

Colours, prints and patterns can be confusing on a regular day, so when it comes down to mixing them together, you can only imagine the sheer chaos. Learning to successfully match your shirts and ties is an undeniable art, fortunately, it’s one you can easily learn. Getting creative with your shirt and tie combinations is a great way to showcase your personal style and to separate yourself from your peers- especially if you work in an industry that requires you to wear one 5-days a week.

To get you started here are 5 tips and tricks you can employ to help you navigate this realm:

  1. Your tie (typically) should always be darker than your shirt
  2. Match a detail in the tie with the dominant colour of the shirt
  3. Always pair larger patterns with smaller ones. Avoid mixing patterns that have identical proportions
  4. Vary pattern type. Avoid having the same pattern appear in both your shirt and your tie
  5. When outfitting with a suit or blazer- ensure that 2 of the 3 items have the same colour scheme
SHIRT-AND-TIE-STRIPES

Tiger of Sweden Steel Stripe Shirt (Blue & Brown): $159 Stenstroms Fine Stripe Dress Shirt: $249 Seaward & Stern Printed Ties: $150/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-CASUALS

Johnny Love Cross Check Flannel Shirt: $199 Benson Pattern Shirt: $125 Ted Baker Flannel Shirt: $195 Amanda Christensen Tie: $95/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-PRINTS

Oscar Of Sweden Floral Print Shirt: $189 Strellson Quentin-C Houndstooth Dress Shirt: $178 Ted Baker Small Floral Print Shirt: $195 Amanda Christensen Tie: $95/each

SHIRT-AND-TIE-SOLIDS

Mastai Ferretti Paolo Verri End-On-End Dress Shirt: $135 Horst Dress Shirt

SHIRT-AND-TIE-CHECKS

Gotstyle Private Label Plaid Check Shirt: $165 Amanda Christensen Tie: 95 Gotstyle Top Twill Grid Check Dress Shirt: $165 Seaward & Stern Tie: $150 Stenstroms Mini Check Dress Shirt: $249

AVAILABLE AT: Bathurst, Distillery, Online
ITEM OF THE WEEK

Item Of The Week: Sully Wong KYOJIN Backpack

October 10, 2014

Subtle as David and just as intimidating as Goliath, the KYOJIN, Japanese for “giant” is the true work horse. Sully Wong’s tactile KYOJIN backpack brings unexpected sophistication to a piece that is classically considered outward bound. The minimal design and tonal accents are super sleek. The very straight edges add geometric polish- a triumph of cool practicality. Whether your carrying light or in a tight jam, the KYOJIN handles it with stride.

Product details:

  • Micro woven nylon + faux leather construction.
  • Roll up top side access point. – Cross chest harness adjust.
  • Reinforced bottom w/ faux leather.
  • Main compartment equipped with padded laptop sleeve and pocket w/ zip closure.
  • Side panel nylon gear straps w/ removable fastener.
  • Lower front zip pocket.
  • Padded adjustable straps.
  • Padded contact surface back.
AVAILABLE AT: Bathurst, Distillery, Online